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29, No, 1, January 15, 1971, pp. 19-27. Tukey, J. W. , "An Introduction to the Calculations of Numerical Spectrum Analysis", in Chapter 2 of Advanced Seminar on Spectral Analysis of Time Series, ed. by Bernard Harris, John Wiley and Sons, Inc. , New York (1967), pp. 25-46. U . S . Naval Weather Service Command, Summary of Synoptic Meteorological Observations - North American Coastal Marine Areas, Volume 3, Federal Clearinghouse for Scientific and Technical Information, Springfield, Va. , 22151, 1970.

8. 9. Introduction The critical Reynolds number of the boundarylayer The experimental equipment The critical flow condition Turbulent v e l o c i t y distribution near an o s c i l l a t i n g smooth w a l l Turbulent v e l o c i t y distribution near an o s c i l l a t i n g rough w a l l The transport of bed particles by w a v e motion C a l c u l a t i o n of the sediment load S u s p e n s i o n in the o s c i l l a t i n g boundary layer 1. 53 56 58 62 66 72 78 79 90 INTRODUCTION The various problems of w a v e s , beaches and of their interrelation have been the subjects of many studies at the hydraulic laboratory of the University of California at Berkeley.

Above the bed layer, bed particles move in s u s pension, i . e . , continuously transmitting their weight to the surrounding water. 54 SEDIMENT TRANSPORT 8. The distribution of the concentration in a s u s pension is defined by the equation of equilibrium exchange of particles through the various horizontal p l a n e s , with the bed-load concentration in the bed layer as boundary condition. All these eight principles are assumed (and seem) to apply equally to the problem of sediment transport by wave action except No.